Rose Care

Listed below are some symptoms your roses may encounter along with recommended remedies:

SLOW STARTING ROSES – Water the roses heavily during the first three weeks.  Spray canes during the day if possible.  After three weeks, if the rose is not showing growth, sweat the plant by placing wet sphagnum moss in the center of the crown and then cover the canes with a clear polyethylene bag or burlap to force new growth.  Be careful of excessive heat buildup.  Check daily for signs of bud growth and then remove the bag or burlap along with the moss.

LEAVES FOLD OR ARE DISTORTED,  WHITE POWERDERLY MATERIAL APPEARS ON THE FORMING BUDS AND LEAVES – This is powdery mildew which is fostered by cool nights, warm days and high humidity.  Spray with baking soda and soap or dust with sulphur.

DARK BLACK ROUND SPOTS ON THE LEAVES.  HALF OF THE LEAF YELLOWS OR THE LEAF DROPS COMPLETELY FROM THE PLANT – This is called Black Spot and is a fungus favored by rainy weather or late evening watering.  Spray with a sulphur based fungicide being sure to get the undersides of the leaves as well.

BROWN SPOTS ON PETALS AND BROWN DIEBACK OF CUT CANES OR BUD ROT – This is a blight caused by nighttime high humidity or rainy cool periods.  Maintain good air circulation and spray with a fungicide.  Clean off twigs or leaves to prevent the fungus from spreading throughout the plant.

DARK IRREGULAR SPLOTCHES ON LEAVES, DROPPING OF HEALTHY LEAVES AND YELLOWED LEAF SECTIONS – This is Downy Mildew.  Cut back the plant and dust or spray with a fungicide.

TUMOR-LIKE GROWTH ON CANES, ROOTS OR AT A BUD UNION – Gall which is a bacterial problem that entered through a wound or contaminated pruning tool.  Prune away the affected section, if possible.  If the galls are not pruned off, they will kill the plant.  Be sure to sterilize your pruners and other tools with bleach or alcohol to prevent the spreading of the bacteria.  You must also treat the soil or leave fallow for two seasons before replanting in that area.